Mayo Abbey Parish Magazine 1995
Northumbria
by Joe Brett
In October, 1994, a group from Mayo Abbey travelled to
North Eastern England and visited Whitby, Jarrow,
Lindisfarne and Durham. These centres were among the most
important in the ancient Kingdom of Northumbria and are
directly and indirectly connected with the foundation of the
seventh century monastic settlement in Mayo Abbey, which
became known throughout Christendom as "Mayo of the
Saxons". Whitby is a seaside town on the North-Eastern coast of
Yorkshire. It is a sea port and holiday resort with a
population in the region of 14,000. A Monastery was built in
Whitby in 657 AD. on the bleak eastern cliff top. It became
a foundation for both men and women and its first Abbess was
St. Hilda, who was a daughter of the then King of
Northumbria, King Oswy. It was the setting for the famous
Synod of Whitby, in 664 AD., where St. Colman's defence of
the Celtic tradition and practice of Faith was rejected.
Following this defeat, Colman withdrew from Northumbria and
eventually founded the monastery at Mayo Abbey. Whitby also has many historical connections with the sea.
It was an important port in Roman times and continued so
down through the centuries. In later times it became a major
centre for the whaling industry. Captain Cook learned his
sea-faring skills here and two of the vessels used for his
perilous voyages of discovery were built here. There are
several maritime museums in the town. A more modern claim to
fame is that the Whitby area is the setting for the T.V.
series "Heartbeat." A Roman meteorlogical station stands beside the Abbey
ruins on the Eastern cliff top, overlooking the town and
port, which is still used today. Close by is an Anglican
graveyard which features in Bram Stoker's gothic novel,
"Dracula", as the final resting place of the blood-thirsty
Count! The Mediaeval Abbey of Whitby was built between 1220
and 1320 AD. The ruins still standing are very extensive and
well preserved. The site is very exposed and wind swept and
one can easily imagine how austere the life of the
inhabitants of the Abbey must have been. The site is owned,
maintained, and staffed by English Heritage. It was
excavated by archaeologists in the 1920's and the site of
the 7th. Century Abbey has been clearly identified. However,
most of it was then covered over with a car park. Jarrow is part of the vast urban and industrial region of
Tyneside, which also includes Newcastle, Gateshead, North
Shields and South Shields. It is an area of industrial
decline and is eligible for European Structural Funds. It is here that The Venerable Bede spent his life (673 -
735 AD.). He wrote many books during his lifetime, the most
noteworthy being "The Ecclesiastical History of the English
People" - the first history of the English Church. It is in
this work that the foundation and early development of Mayo
Abbey is recorded. The Monastic Parish Church of St. Paul is the Anglican
Parish Church which is in everyday use. The Chancel is part
of the original Saxon monastery built in 681 AD. by Benedict
Biscop. This was the first monastery to be built of stone in
Britain and it is therefore of immense importance. The
adjoining monastic ruins were excavated between 1963 and
1978 under the direction of Professor Rosemary Cramp. Three
different layers (periods) of building have been found and
are shown at ground level using three different types of
stone-pattern. There is an exhibition of artifacts from the
archaeological excavations inside the church, together with
a bookshop/souvenir stall. The monastic site is under the
guardianship of English Heritage. Beside the monastic site and church is Jarrow Hall, a 170
years old Georgian mansion situated in an area of parkland.
Purchased and restored in 1979 by St. Paul's Jarrow
Development Trust, it houses The Bede Monastery Museum. It
offers facilities for temporary exhibitions, day courses,
and workshops, and it has an educational programme which
caters for 15,000 school children per year, employing two
full-time teachers. It also houses a coffee shop and a
bookshop/tourist information centre. The exhibition contains
many artifacts from the archaeological excavations,
facsimiles of books crafted by Bede and other monks at the
monastery, models of the monastery, and an audio/visual
interpretation of Bede's life, which is now ten years
old. Beside Jarrow Hall is "Bede's World", a massive a
development project involving the construction of a living
Anglo-Saxon farm and very elaborate museum buildings on a
plot of industrial wasteland which was once an oil tank
"farm." The total cost of the project is in the region of
£3,500,000 - 70% of this money is coming from E.U.
Structural Funds and £1,000,000 is being raised by St.
Paul's Jarrow Development Trust. At the time of our visit
work had been in progress for more than a year. The
farm-scape had been put in place and there were some animals
on the compound. The first phase of the museum building was
also under construction. (The project was subsequently
opened in May, 1995.) Holy Island - Lindisfarne, is situated off the North
Eastern coast of Northumberland, within twenty miles of the
Scottish border. It is approached from the mainland across a
three mile causeway at low tide. The island is a natural
beauty-spot, a bird sanctuary and wildlife reserve and
attracts in the region of 250,000 visitors each year. There
is a small village on the leeward side which has remained
unspoiled, despite the large influx of tourists each year.
It contains a number of small hotels and cafés as
well as two gift shops which sell locally produced goods and
"Lindisfarne Mead". On the Eastern side is a 16th Century
Castle built by Henry VIII. The Farne islands are to be seen
off the coast, while Bamburgh Castle forms the backdrop to
the south, on the mainland. The ruins of the mediaeval
Priory are accessed on foot through the village and the
grounds of the Anglican Church. St. Aiden came to Northumbria and founded a monastery on
Lindisfarne in the year 635 AD. The island was chosen as the
site for a monastic settlement because it was adjacent to
Bamburgh, the home of the Northumbrian King Oswald, who had
invited the Saint to his Kingdom from Iona. The island was
also secluded, but offered easy access to the mainland at
low tide. The monastery quickly became a centre of learning
and many boys from the local nobility became monks there. In
660 AD. St. Colman was appointed Bishop of Lindisfarne.
After his defeat at Whitby, he withdrew from the island to
Iona, taking with him many of these Saxon monks and monks of
Irish extraction. They eventually founded the monastery at
Mayo Abbey. He was succeeded by St. Cuthbert, who was given the job
of reorganising the monastery to the "Roman" practice
following the withdrawal of the main body of monks. He later
became a hermit on the nearby Inner Farne island. During his
lifetime he performed many miracles, and after his death in
687 AD. he was venerated as a Saint. In 698 his body was
exhumed and it was found to be incorrupt. It was then
enshrined in an over ground coffin. This coffin is still in
existence and, together with other precious objects
associated with the saint, is on display at Durham
Cathedral, his final resting place. The Lindisfarne Gospels
were written in his honour at this time, chiefly by a monk
called Eadfrith. The miracles that occurred at St.
Cuthbert's shrine soon established Lindisfarne as THE major
pilgrimage centre of Northumbria, causing the monastery to
grow in power and wealth. Adversity befell the community towards the latter part of
the eighth century. The monastery was raided by Vikings and
the monks sought refuge on the mainland, taking with them
St. Cuthbert's coffin and relics. They first settled at
Northam, on the Tweed but this also proved to be insecure.
At one point they attempted to cross to Ireland but were
turned back by a storm, and in 883 they settled at
Chester-le-Street, sixty miles south of Holy Island. They
finally moved to Durham about 995. In 1104 a Norman
Cathedral was built at Durham as a shrine to the saint.
There followed a great resurgence in devotion to St.
Cuthbert which eventually led to the re-establishment of a
Priory on Holy Island. The building was a smaller version of
Durham Cathedral and it remained in use for more than four
centuries until its dissolution c.1538. To this very day the
island has remained a place of pilgrimage for both the
Catholic and Anglican Faiths. St. Cuthbert and St. Bede are
still venerated as two of the greatest Saints of the English
Church. St. Mary's Anglican Church stands at the end of the
village, close to the sea shore. Like St. Paul's at Jarrow,
the chancel of St. Mary's Church is early Saxon (c.900 AD.).
The main body of the church was built over the succeeding
centuries and this is apparent in the many differing styles
of architecture used in its construction. There is a
tasteful display on the Lindisfarne Gospels in the church,
which includes facsimiles of them and a copy of the Book of
Kells, which has Northumbrian connections. For the past ten
years, the Anglican authorities have allowed Catholic
Priests to celebrate Mass in the church for pilgrimages and
on special occasions. This concession was first granted to
Mr. Bernard Connelly, the organiser of our tour. Fr. Roland
Connelly, Bernard's brother, celebrated Mass for us, which
was served by the Anglican Rector, Rev. David Adam. It was a
very moving experience for all of us from Mayo Abbey - one
felt as if a circle had been completed after many
centuries. The Priory ruin is situated beside St. Mary's Church. It
is owned and controlled by English Heritage. It dates from
c.1100 AD. and is very extensive, covering an area in the
region of three to four acres. It has an aura of sacredness
and it is very easy to understand why it has been a place of
pilgrimage for many centuries. It is well interpreted with
many multilingual, weather-proof displays placed through the
site showing plans and views of the Priory in its original
state. Several archaeological investigations have been carried
out on the site during this century - the most recent was
supervised by Professor Rosemary Cramp. Despite this, no
trace of the site of the original Saxon foundation has been
found, though it is thought to be situated under the
Mediaeval ruins. The only artifact from the Saxon period on
display at the Priory is the base of a high cross. Durham Cathedral was built 1104 AD. as a shrine to St.
Cuthbert and is his final resting place. His body is
enshrined at the rear of the high altar and no other burial
was allowed within the precincts of the Cathedral. It is
situated in the centre of the city of Durham on a hill which
is encompassed on three sides by a river. This was the main
reason for choosing the site, as it closely resembled the
island situation of Lindisfarne. The Cathedral is one of the
architectural treasures of Western Europe and represents the
pinacle of the Romanesque period. At a later time the
Galilee chapel was built onto the Cathedral and the body of
St. Bede was enshrined there. For many centuries Durham was the residence of the Prince
Bishops, who were very powerful leaders both in Church and
State. At the Dissolution of the monasteries in 1536/38 the
Bishop of Durham converted immediately to the Reformed
Church. Thus Cathedral and related monastic buildings were
saved and today are the only remaining "unbroken" example of
a mediaeval monastic settlement in Britain. Whitby
Jarrow
Holy Island -
Lindisfarne
Durham











